The Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collections, presented across Milan and Paris, paint a picture of masculine style in transition. After several seasons of quiet luxury’s muted restraint, the new season introduces colour, texture, and a relaxed confidence that feels less like rebellion and more like evolution. For the discerning gentleman, the trends that matter most are those that enhance rather than replace the foundations of a well-built wardrobe.
The Return of Colour
Perhaps the most significant shift for SS26 menswear is the wholesale reintroduction of colour. Tomato red, lemon, lime, and warm peach appeared across collections from Versace to Loewe, injecting energy into pieces that retain classic silhouettes. The approach is measured: a vibrant knit paired with neutral trousers, or a single colourful jacket layered over a restrained base. The message is not to abandon sophistication but to punctuate it.
Anthony Vaccarello’s collection for Saint Laurent embraced burgundy, ochre, and blue — deliberately avoiding black except for footwear. The palette felt simultaneously fresh and timeless, a reminder that colour need not mean costume.
Relaxed Tailoring Ascends
The structured suit has not disappeared, but it has loosened. Across the SS26 shows, flowing fabrics, loose-fitting blazers, and wider trousers dominated — all layered with apparent effortlessness but constructed with considerable skill. The silhouette feels Mediterranean: easy, confident, and unhurried.
Giorgio Armani, whose name is synonymous with the deconstructed jacket, continued to refine his vision of soft tailoring with meerschaum-coloured mesh knit over wide trousers. Hermès presented light knitwear and relaxed proportions that suggested weekend sophistication rather than boardroom formality. This evolution of tailoring connects to the enduring influence of Savile Row’s bespoke traditions, where the cut serves the body rather than constraining it.
Preppy Sport: The Miu Miu Effect
Sportswear is entering what one might call its polished era. The preppy sport trend — catalysed by Miu Miu’s influential spring collections featuring rugby tops, fitted polos, and languid V-necks — has evolved into a definitive SS26 movement. Loewe styled bright red V-necks casually over butter-yellow button-downs, while Mithridate presented moss-green-and-navy striped polos layered over menswear-inspired shirts.
This is not streetwear. It is the elevated vocabulary of country club culture, reimagined for urban environments and contemporary sensibilities.
Knitwear in Easy Mode
Light, relaxed knitwear — in ribs, mesh, gauze, and open weaves — emerged as one of the season’s most versatile categories. Drop shoulders and loose fits replace the fitted knits of previous seasons, creating a silhouette that is effortless without appearing careless.
The chunky knit polo, in particular, represents a SS26 standout — serving as both a polished alternative to the Oxford shirt and a sophisticated layering piece beneath unstructured blazers. Dolce & Gabbana, Hermès, and Zegna all offered compelling interpretations.
The ’80s Influence, Refined
The broader cultural return to ’80s aesthetics manifests in menswear through bold shoulders, confident proportions, and what might be called assertive dressing. Pinterest searches for “baggy suit” have risen ninety percent, while interest in power-era silhouettes suggests that men are ready to occupy space again after seasons of deliberate understatement.
Crucially, the SS26 interpretation avoids the excesses of the original decade. The shoulders are defined but not exaggerated. The suits are bold but not costumey. The influence of bespoke tailoring’s emphasis on proportion and fit ensures that even the most expressive pieces remain wearable and flattering.
What to Invest In
For the gentleman refining his wardrobe for SS26, the wisest investments are those that embrace the season’s relaxed confidence without chasing trend. A well-cut unstructured blazer in a warm neutral. A quality knit polo in a considered colour. A pair of wide-legged trousers in lightweight wool or linen. These are the pieces that will carry the spirit of the season while retaining relevance long after the collections have moved on.
The menswear message for SS26 is ultimately one of liberation — permission to dress with more personality, more colour, and more ease than the quiet luxury era allowed. This is not the end of restraint; it is the beginning of a richer, more expressive chapter.
Sources: Elite Traveler, FACES Magazine, FashionUnited, Who What Wear, Hidalgo Brothers
